This morning I went grocery shopping for the necessities like I do every weekend. I didn’t make time to hit the markets like I usually do so I planned a few simple things for this week. Roasted chicken that I could later make into soup ect. Just a quick trip and I’d be on my way. The air outside my apartment was crisp at 39 degrees, “Fall is officially settled in.” I thought as I started my car and thought about heading back in for some tea for the road. I knew apple season was upon us and a friend had sent me a photo the day before of his bag of Honeycrisps since he knows I am slightly obsessed. Little did I know what would be waiting for me at the store.
I stepped into the store and started picking through the produce, trying to find the last of the local stuff and checking off items on my list. As I rounded the corner I saw them. The milk jugs. Not pearly white but auburn brown. That could only mean one thing, cider. Finding good, unfiltered, local cider is a thing of beauty. I thought of homemade vinegar and hot spicy drinks. Bourbon of course came to mind! Above all that, a fall favorite popped forth. Since I knew I’d be spending the better part of the day with friends and family watching football I called our hosts and asked if I could claim their kitchen during the game. Odd considering I spend almost every Sunday cooking for a crowd but the polite thing to do none-the-less. When I explained the menu I was greeted with rounds of support and excitement.
Caramelized onion and cider braised pork shoulder with turnip greens, garlic potatoes and a gravy from the pan juices. For me this is fall on a plate. Hearty, filling and savory with a sweetness. After discovering they were out of turnip greens I opted for brussels sprouts since I knew I could roast them with much the same approval as the greens would have received. I liked the “balance” I could try to create between the sweet pan gravy and the earthy, not quite bitter, sprouts. Not to mention I could bust out my oval cast iron dutch oven for the meat which is always a treat in my mind. After that a quick stop for pork shoulder and I’d be on my way.
Once the game was in full swing I got to work. After trimming the meat slightly I scored the fat cap with a rather pretty crosshatch. I was proud of the uniformity (for once) and set about slicing onions. In the past I used sweet onions. After the mishap last year with the French Onion Soup I knew better than to use just those so I grabbed several varieties. The cider would have a lot of sweetness which I wanted but I couldn’t have that cloying sugary taste with the meat. Once I had everything set and the meat was browned I set it in the oven and went off to enjoy the game. When the time came to set up the potatoes and sprouts the whole floor of the house smelled of apples and pork, something I feel Glade should make a plugin for. Only one minor mishap, but more on that later. Here is the finished plate:
What did I learn from this meal? A few things.
To me the best part about this dish, apart from firm pork slices that are still tender enough you can cut with a fork, is the pan gravy. When I checked the meat halfway through the onions weren’t caramelized the way I wanted so I fished as many out as I could and set them in a non-stick skillet to get some color. Not the best solution I’m sure but I got the color I wanted and returned them to the pot. The cider I used was not the unfiltered kind I love to use. I got plenty of odd looks as I systematically flipped each jug on the display, looking for the one with the most amount of debris, later called mother when you make vinegar, on the bottom. It was sweeter than I had hoped but still worked well. It needed an earthy taste overall but how to add that? Mushrooms and what kind? I’m not sure but I now have a goal for this to work towards.
The sprouts turned out great and the potatoes creamy with just a hint of garlic since I added it to the boiling liquid when I cooked them. My big mistake came in the prep of those items. Not really a mistake so to speak but definitely one that will cost me some street cred if I’m not careful in the future. I cut my finger. Not a gusher but enough to make things uncomfortable for the rest of the night (though typing is proving a challenge at the moment) I went through the nail this time and that’s never good. I have read all about proper curling of the fingers when you are slicing and have seen more than one chef demonstrate the technique. It’s one that I feel I can do but obviously not well enough. I just dont’ feel like I have control over what I am holding without the tips resting firmly on the item I’m cutting. Had I not been aware that I am prone to this mistake the cut could have been much worse, still not something to be proud of.
Which to me opens the door to another set of question. Is this not just a part of everyday kitchen life? You see if happen on cooking competition shows all the time. I think of Top Chef and how many incredibly talented and very experienced chefs have cut themselves and I feel a little better about myself. But I know I was rushing and thinking about something other than was doing. That isn’t an excuse. What If I was at the beginning of a full day of prep for a “real job”? What if I had gone deeper and couldnt’ have finished the job. It’s not something I will allow myself to dwell on for too long but definitely on my short list of things to correct and fast. Maybe I’m not alone out there and some of you readers who work in the profession will let me know. For now I will just enjoy my full stomach, the last of the 8 PM sunsets and the smells of apples and pork, still wafting through the air.
ButterNBourbon 